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RSSFeline Articles

Cat’s bad peeing behavior

| November 3, 2010
Cat's bad peeing behavior

If your cat made a mess, don't be mad about it. There might be a reason why your cat urinates on the floor instead of using the litter box. Actually there will be a reason for sure because cats might "spray" at your furniture to mark their territory but they will certainly not do this on your carpet or floor. Cats spray vertically, similar to dogs...

If your cat made a mess, don’t be mad about it. There might be a reason why your cat urinates on the floor instead of using the litter box. Actually there will be a reason for sure because cats might “spray” at your furniture to mark their territory but they will certainly not do this on your carpet or floor. Cats spray vertically, similar to dogs…

In order to find out what might be the reason for this behavior of your cat, you need to observe your cat and find out what could be wrong. Here are some ideas of what to look for:

  • Make sure the litter box is clean. Your cat does not like a dirty or stinky litter box.
  • Is the litter box in the right environment? Where did you place the litter box? Hopefully at a silent place like the basement of your house.
  • Is the litter box big enough? Your cat need some space to perform his ritual. The cat needs to be able to turn around without touching the litter box walls.
  • If you 2 or more cats, then you might need more than one litter box. Some cats don’t like to share their own place with other cats.
  • Your cat might be stressed. Most cats react very sensible when confronted with to much stress. Make sure your cat has a silent place to “hide”.
  • Is your cat sick? Sometimes these accidents can be a signal for a disease. Take your cat to the doctor if necessary.

However, make sure your cat likes his home and his “bath-room”. If there is still an unnatural behavior, go to the doctor with your cat. Make sure it gets professional treatment, an expert is always better than a friend who knows a lot about cats…

Here are some tips on how you can make your and your cat’s life easier:

There are certain things that you can take care of in order to provide your cat a clean place to go.
Use these advises and your cat will thank you for the good care by loving you.

  • You should put at least 3 sheets of newspaper at the bottom of the litter box. then fill the litter box with enough litter, at least 3 inches.
  • Change the litter at least every 3 days
  • Clean the whole litter box at least every 2 weeks
  • Use a mild soap and a lot of water to clean the litter box, don’t use ammonia or chemical cleaners. They might hurt your cat’s nose because the smell very strong.
  • Don’t put the litter box on a carpet, it might feel for your cat as if it was litter…
  • get the “big” mess out the litter box every day.
  • If you use clumping litter, scoop it at least once a day.

If your cat has made the mess, you need to clean it up. To get rid of the odor and stains completely get a professional cat urine cleaner. Home made cleaning products or average urine eliminator products won’t work. Here is some more information about that: http://www.caturine-cleaner.com

Copyright & Credit:

Source: Free Articles
About the Author Guido Nussbaum, a 28 year old cat-friend from Germany. I have 2 cats (brother and sister) that are 13 years old. My website http://www.caturine-cleaner.com deals with cat urine cleaning products and cats in general.

Photo copyright and courtesy: Lena Povrzenic – stock.xchng

Catnip and Your Cat

| December 22, 2011
CatNip and Your Cat

Catnip isn’t just a cat thing. Actually cat nip is a nickname for a plant that comes from the mint family. For a cat, this herb is like one too many martinis. The reaction may be wild and crazy or totally oblivious in that classic “who cares” manner that cats do so well.

 

Catnip isn’t just a cat thing. Actually cat nip is a nickname for a plant that comes from the mint family. For a cat, this herb is like one too many martinis. The reaction may be wild and crazy or totally oblivious in that classic “who cares” manner that cats do so well.

Inside this plant is a chemical element called nepetalactone, which seems to prompt amazing reactions that are different for each cat. While you can’t smell it, this herbal plant has a unique scent to a feline.

The typical cat pauses to sniff this unusual substance and maybe give it a small lick. Then the cat returns to chew on the plants leaves. Some cats love to roll around in it and get it all over their fur.

Shortly after ingesting cat nip, a cat may leap, roll, wiggle, purr and seem to freak out. The cat may become aggressive toward another pet when under the influence of this hypnotic plant. Another cat may nibble the catnip, grin broadly and quietly savor the experience. Fortunately this “trip” lasts just a matter of minutes.

Although coming down from the high may take a few hours before your cat responds normally. Older cats seem less vulnerable or perhaps less interested in the whole experience. Very young kittens also are less interested in the plant.

This herbal plant can be purchased in a pet store in dried leaf form or as an essential oil. Just a small drop of the oil is all that’s needed to get a reaction. You can also purchase catnip-scented toys. But keep in mind the potency of the herb declines quickly over time. So you want purchase well sealed cat toys or even vacuum packaged for the best freshness.

So toss out the old toys regularly and get fresh toys so your cat gets the same enjoyment out of it. While catnip is related to other common plants like basil, spearmint and oregano, those plants don’t have the same effect on cats.

Catnip is an aphrodisiac for some cats – causing them to become very amorous with another cat. So you have to wonder, can a cat become addicted to it? While each catnip nibble is a delight for your cat, he’s not going to trash the house or sell your car to get more.

Cats won’t become addicted to cat nip, so it’s a treat you can provide for your feline friend a few times a week. If you have more than one cat, give them each their own little pile of the herb so that they don’t have to compete for the pleasure against one another.

Copyright & Credit:

Author’s Resource: Mark and Cindi have created the cat health and behavior website because they love cats. Visit the free cat food recipes page to find out more about home cooked meals for your pets. Or visit this page for answers to the most common cat behavior problems! Visit Animal Pets & Friends for more pet and animal articles.

Photo copyright and courtesy: John Nyberg – stock.xchng

Catnip, the Mysterious Herb

| December 22, 2011
Catnip the Mysterious Herb

The typical catnip scenario for the domestic cat initially involves the offering of some catnip leaves, either fresh or dried. Cats will first smell, and then lick or chew the stuff for a few minutes. Cat owners then stand back and watch the fun begin.

Gigi loved it, but her brother Brandy was indifferent. Crispy loves it, but Ethel was unmoved by it. There you have it: a quick inventory of my past and present cats’ reaction to the plant from which this magazine derives its name.

Fourteen chemicals of diverse biologic origin, including certain plants, are known to affect the behavior of the cat when their fragrances are inhaled. The most famous of these, of course, is catnip. For centuries, ailurophiles (cat lovers) have marveled at the delight cats seem to get from smelling, nibbling on, and rolling in the stuff.

With the possible exception of man (i.e. eccentrics who claim to get a “buzz” when they smoke the stuff), a behavioral response to catnip is found only in members of the feline family. Lions in particular demonstrate a rather spectacular response, and hunters have used catnip to lure bobcat and lynx. Leopards, jaguars, pumas, ocelots, and sever other so-called lesser cats also respond to catnip.

The typical catnip scenario for the domestic cat initially involves the offering of some catnip leaves, either fresh or dried. Cats will first smell, and then lick or chew the stuff for a few minutes. Cat owners then stand back and watch the fun begin. Some cats show a “like, wow, man” response and just gaze off into space, that being the extent of their reaction. Most “responders” progress to rubbing their cheeks and chin in the catnip source and act a little dizzy. The intense responders will rub their bodies on the ground while rolling from side to side, purring, growling, and perhaps leaping into the air. Some cats get a little frisky and will smack a fellow housemate kitty on the head. Reactions vary, although most cats experience both a relaxing and a stimulating effect. The complete response lasts for five to fifteen minutes, with a type of satiation developing so that a response cannot be evoked again for at least an hour or two. Approximately 30% of adult cats show zero or minimal response to the plant, and nearly all kittens under 2 months of age show no reaction to catnip and often actively avoid it. Animals that are fearful or under stress will have a decreased reaction to catnip. Males and females respond equally, although there’s some evidence that among susceptible cats, males respond a bit more strongly than females. Whether a cat is a responder or not is based on heredity; a recessive gene is involved, so that two cats from the same litter may have different responses to the plant, like my Brandy (bored) and Gigi (thrilled). It’s probably not a good idea to give it to a cat that goes outdoors, since the cat might not be able to care for itself while under its influence.

So what exactly is in this stuff? Catnip (Nepeta cataria) is a member of the mint family. In fact, it has also been referred to as “catmint”. It is related to common kitchen herbs like thyme and sage, and can be easily cultivated as a houseplant. Years ago, in England, dried catnip leaves put in boiling water was a popular tea for humans – it was said to have a calming effect. When the plant is crushed and the oils are distilled, catnip extract is obtained. Studies have shown the active ingredient in the oil is nepetalactone. This chemical repels certain leaf-eating insects, providing protection for the plant. It is the smell of this oil that triggers the response in cats. Anesthetizing the nasal passages and obliterating the sense of smell in a cat will abolish the catnip reaction.

Interestingly, the plants that belong to the catnip family are indigenous only to the Old World, and yet, members of the feline family that respond to catnip are found in both the Old World and the New World. So, if you think about the catnip response from an evolutionary standpoint, it seems clear that some species of cats have acquired the ability to display the catnip response even though the natural source of nepetalactone was not present to influence the evolution of this behavioral response. (Yet another fun fact that adds to the overall mystique of the feline).

Why catnip produces the response that it does is not fully understood, but there are several possible explanations. There is an unmistakable similarity between the catnip response and the rolling and squirming of female cats during courtship and just after copulation, leading some investigators to conclude that catnip may be acting like a hormone, activates a neural system in the brain related to female sexual behavior. Another school of thought is that catnip produces a form of pleasurable behavior unrelated to sexuality, and that the rolling and rubbing is simply a manifestation of a pleasure response. In 1972, Canadian researcher R.C. Hatch reported in the American Journal of Veterinary Research that the chemical structure of the active ingredient in catnip is very similar to that of LSD, leading to speculation that the bliss that cats seem to experience is similar to the reaction humans experience to these drugs. In other words, if you’ll pardon my French, the cat is simply stoned out of its mind.

Cat owners are undoubtedly familiar with the myriad of catnip toys, sprays, and related paraphernalia available in pet shops and online, as these products are consistently popular with the cat loving public. Perhaps the most notable of the catnip items is Cosmic Catnip. Approximately 25 years ago, Leon Seidman, a graduate student, went searching for the ultimate catnip for W.B., his cat. Avoiding the commercial products, Seidman went to drugstores where catnip was sometimes kept in jars and sold along with other pharmaceutical herbs. W.B. gave it a try. His response, (if cats could speak, mind you) was “whoa dude, this is killer weed”. That summer, Seidman visited a friend in Virginia and found catnip growing wild on his friend’s farm. He grabbed a bunch of it and zoomed back home to Maryland where he began a small business selling what he called Cosmic Catnip, an especially potent variety. Today, Seidman and his wife Pamela are president and vice president of Cosmic Pet Products, Inc. which packages and sells around 140,000 pounds of catnip a year in the United States, Canada, and Europe. According to the Pet Industry Joint Advisory Council, a Washington-based trade group, no other company produces more of the stuff than Seidman. When the scent of my cats’ catnip toys begins to fade, rubbing a fresh batch over the surface of the toy freshens it up, and the fun begins anew.

Cat owners who worry about whether they may be indulging their cat too frequently should be told that, like anything special, it should be offered for a little while, then put away for a few days, so that it remains a special treat. Catnip is safe and not addictive, however, because of the altered mental state that it induces in most cats, cat owners should be warned that they should avoid letting their cat drive the car or operate heavy machinery while under the influence.

“Hear Dr. Plotnick discuss catnip on the radio program “Animals Aloud” by clicking here.

Copyright & Credit:

Article Source: Dr. Arnold Plotnick is a board-certified veterinary internist and feline specialist. He is the owner of Manhattan Cat Specialists, http://www.manhattancats.com , a full-service veterinary facility located in New York City. Dr. Plotnick is the medical editor of Catnip magazine and is a medical advice columnist on CatChannel. He authors his own blog “Cat Man Do” http://catexpert.blogspot.com .

Cats and Kids

| December 20, 2011
Cats and Kids

When acquiring a cat, the presence of young children in the household should be considered. With all innocence, a child may pull a cat's tail, stick objects in it's ears, embrace a cat too strongly, poke the cat, or anything else that strikes the child's fancy.

When acquiring a cat, the presence of young children in the household should be considered. With all innocence, a child may pull a cat’s tail, stick objects in it’s ears, embrace a cat too strongly, poke the cat, or anything else that strikes the child’s fancy. To the untutored child this is fun, to the cat it is not, and the most gentle, docile cat may respond with a bite or scratch. The experience of having an animal companion can be a very good one for children–an unsurpassable way of learning about love, responsibility and general respect for life. But children do need instruction and close supervision to insure the experience is always a positive one–for both kids and cats.

Cats and babies

There are many myths about cats, in particular about cats and babies. One is that cats like to suck the breath out of babies, or that cats smother a baby if allowed to sleep in the child’s crib. Both of these are totally unfounded, and common sense treatment is more than enough to keep both cats and baby safe. Cats may like to snuggle with babies because they are warm, soft and don’t make quick movements. With supervision, this can be a good way for your cat to get to know the new baby and to help diffuse any feelings of jealousy or distress your cat may feel about the new arrival. You could try letting your cat snuggle with you and the baby while you are nursing or holding the baby. This way the cat will begin to grow accustomed to the sounds, sights and smells of the baby.

When the baby starts to crawl, it will often start reaching for the cat and try to grab hold of the cat’s tail or face. At this age–if the groundwork has been laid for a positive relationship between the cat and the baby –it is a simple matter for the cat to slip away from the baby’s grasp. When the baby is quiet, the cat will likely return. The child at this age poses no threat to the cat and cannot prevent the cat from leaving when he wants to. A loved cat that feels secure in its place in a household will usually keep out of reach of the baby if it is being to rambunctious, or will manage to squirm away–without showing aggression–if grabbed and squeezed.

The toddler stage is a different story. This is a time of transition, and the cat will now need to be actively protected from the child. As a toddler, the child becomes strong enough to inadvertently harm the cat. The child may pick up a toy, swing it about and accidentally hit the cat sitting close by. Children at this age are not yet capable of understanding that they now have a superior strength. Constant adult supervision is needed until the child learns the rules involved in dealing with the cat. The first rule the child should learn is: never try to hold a cat if the cat wants to go. If you always let the cat go, it will always come back to you. As long as the cat can leave if it wants to, it will never have reason to scratch. Cats scratch only as a last resort if they are extremely upset and frightened. The close supervision of the child with cats will last until the child is about six years old–at this age kids become more dependable at remembering, as well as following, the rules.

As a note, the above information is intended for adult cats and children. The situation is different with kittens. It is recommended by most veterinarians and shelter personnel that you not bring a kitten into a household with toddlers. Little children with the best intentions and kindest hearts in the world can maul a kitten to death, literally. All it takes is one moment of unsupervised contact for the kitten to be severely injured or dead and the child to be faced with the guilt of their actions. Protect both your children and your cat by choosing a fully grown cat if adding a feline to your young family.

Cats and young children

Cats with all their claws intact are by far the gentlest and safest companions of young children. Declawed cats are often not good with kids, as they seem less secure in their own abilities to escape and will be more likely to bite. As children grow up, they will probably find the feeding and litter cleaning fascinating. Many children like to help with these activities. This is one of the many contributions your cat makes to your child’s welfare and personal growth. Just by their mere presence in the family, cats introduce the youngsters to a sense of responsibility.

However, the wise parent (and responsible cat guardian) never actually uses a helpless animal as a tool to teach children responsibility. Children may help with cat care–with the adult still in charge and overseeing. But even if the children are given full responsibility and think they are totally in charge, the aware adult will keep a constant, if surreptitious, check to see that each mealtime, each cleanup, each grooming session, and the condition of the litterbox continue on the same high standards that prevailed before the younger family members took over. In other words–innocent animals must not be made to pay for the child’s forgetfulness or carelessness. And never get rid of an animal because the children are not caring for it properly. If this is the case, then an animal should never have been acquired in the first place and another one should not be obtained. It is not the children who have failed the cat in their responsibility and commitment in this case, but rather the adult.

Cats Bonding With Their Owners

| December 27, 2011
Cats Bonding With Their Owners

Anyone who has owned a cat will tell you that cats are great at bonding with people, although they are very particular.

There are a lot of experts out there who say that cats are strictly independent animals. These very same experts state that cats have chosen to associate with humans due to their strategy of survival. Although many argue with this statement, there are many who agree as well – although those that agree are normally those in the percentile who don’t agree with cats.

Anyone who has owned a cat will tell you that cats are great at bonding with people, although they are very particular. Normally, a cat will choose someone in the home that he bonds with. You’ll know when a cat wants to bond with you, as he will hop on your lap seeking attention or snuggle up to you at night when you are sleeping. Purring is a strong sign of affections, especially with cats that are looking to bond.

Although many experts have tried to figure it out, no one really knows why cats choose a particular person whom they will bond with. It could be the individual’s manners, voice, or simply how that person treats the cat. Perhaps it may be the individual is really gentle, or maybe a little more forceful – bringing the best out in the cat.

There are a lot of ways that researchers have tried to take this subject, one of which being psychic. Some say that cats bond with someone due to a ‘psychic aura’ that is compatible with both the person and the cat. If a cat feels that someone is giving them a bad vibe, they will simply ignore that person. Although this can be true to a sense for some, a majority of those who own cats will tell you that this couldn’t be any further from the truth.

Even though there are a lot of theories and speculation out there, no one really knows why cats bond with humans. There’s little to no proof available as well, other than cats and their natural instinct for physical survival. Those who own cats know that cats crave attention, simply to make them feel needed. They love to be pampered by their owners, and will shower you with attention and affection if you just give them the chance.

Those who are new to owning cats may find bonding to be very different. Cats are different from other animals, including dogs, in the sense that they bond different. Different breeds of cats will bond different with their owners, although most prefer affection and attention. The more time you spend around your cat, the more he will bond with you. Over the years, you’ll find that the bond you create with your pet has grown very strong – and simply cannot be broken.

Copyright & Credit: Source: Free Articles | About the Author Tristan Andrews writes useful articles about cats and kittens. Discover and explore the feline world. Find out how to better care for, train and live with your cat at http://www.i-love-cats.com

Photo copyright and courtesy: Justyna Furmanczyk – stock.xchng

Choose a particular cat breed can be fun

| November 6, 2010

One of the many factors that you need to consider when choosing a cat breed for your pet is the size of your apartment or home. Although cats leave an impression of always sleeping or lounging around, some are actually very active and need lots of room to exercise and play.

One of the many factors that you need to consider when choosing a cat breed for your pet is the size of your apartment or home. Although cats leave an impression of always sleeping or lounging around, some are actually very active and need lots of room to exercise and play.

Choosing A Cat Breed For Your Family

Pets are great to have in the home. They complete a home very well and they also bring fun and laughter in one. Cats are among the very first animals considered as a pet all over the world. Choosing a cat breed that best suit your family will be difficult because thee are many breeds to choose from and there are many factors to consider. It is best to involve al members of your family in choosing a cat breed to bring into your home and family.

Factors To Consider In Choosing A Cat Breed

One of the many factors that you need to consider when choosing a cat breed for your pet is the size of your apartment or home. Although cats leave an impression of always sleeping or lounging around, some are actually very active and need lots of room to exercise and play. Some breeds are the stereotyped ones that actually just laze around but not all are like this. If an active cat is left to its own devices in a small area, it might do some damage to furniture and other things in the house when it is bored.

One other thing to consider in choosing a cat breed for your family is the amount of time your family can spare to take care of your cat. Longhair cats need regular grooming, which involves bathing, drying and brushing. If you are too busy to facilitate these things, get a shorthair cat.

The health of your family must also be considered when choosing a cat breed. Some longhair varieties shed their fur and dander frequently and these may cause some allergic reactions to you and your family. On the other hand, there is a particular breed of cat that some people claim is hypoallergenic.

Another factor to consider when choosing a cat breed for your home is the expense of feeding and grooming the cat. Cat food can be expensive and grooming services for longhairs can also be expensive, as with veterinarian services. Feeding your cat leftovers can be dangerous because some foods can be deadly for cats.

The personality and temperament of the cat must also be considered when choosing a cat breed. It is better to first get to know the temperament of cat breeds before you adopt or purchase one. Some cat breeds do not like to be treated as lap pets while others relish this. Others also prefer to stay outdoors while others are best kept indoors. Some might also have some inherent sickness like deafness in white cats.

In choosing a cat breed, it is best to scout around first and not base your judgment solely in physical appearance. It would also be helpful to adopt cats instead of buy kittens since many full grown cats now show their personalities and you are getting what you get.

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About the Author: Charlie Reese is a cat lover and likes taking videos of cats. Charlie also likes giving psychic readings and exercise advice on his world wide blog. Title: Choose a particular cat breed can be fun Article Distribution and Free Web Content by www.reprint-content.com


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Controlled Grooming or Cat Wrestling 101

| December 26, 2011
Controlled Grooming or Cat Wrestling 101

Always keep in mind that, the art of grooming a cat is in ‘the eyes of the beholder‘.. What may work for you, may not work for others!! Everyone, and every culture, will handle animals with different techniques. The idea is, to have a beautiful, well adjusted, and manageable cat.

 

In this article I will not be giving instruction, on how to make a coat whiter or, on how to clean eyes. I will not teach you how to do face sculpting, or face maintenance. I will just pass on my observations about grooming manners… A ‘sort of’…’ Cat Grooming for the Soul’ if you like!

Always keep in mind that, the art of grooming a cat is in ‘the eyes of the beholder‘.. What may work for you, may not work for others!! Everyone, and every culture, will handle animals with different techniques. The idea is, to have a beautiful, well adjusted, and manageable cat.

Generally, if you start grooming a cat as a very young kitten , you will develop an easy to groom adult.

Ah.. But life is not that easy!!

What if kitty came from a cattery, where the handling of kittens was not a priority? As breeders, we have all had to deal with this.

Kitty arrives, all ‘fresh and groomed’, accompanied with, a grooming instruction sheet, a mile long!.

One week later, we place little ’Cedric’ into a bath tub, and he turns into the Tasmanian Devil !!! Poor little guy! The grooming session goes less than ideal, and you come away, an aggravated ego.

Show conditioning is not, so much about gorgeous cats, as it is about intelligent grooming!

To develop wonderful grooming manners and habits, there are three concepts, which I feel become paramount, when approaching the grooming of, a Himalayan cat…

1) Preparation, Preparation, Preparation!!!

Have your equipment (including fun stuff) cleaned and ready BEFORE you start. Searching out a comb, or finding shampoo, will cause you to stop, just long enough, for the kitty to find his way out of being groomed!!

2) Never become flustered.

In the moment that you feel challenged, the cat will pick upon your mood…They will then react. It is the secret weapon they use, to help them win control of the situation

3) HAVE FUN

This is a bonding time for you and your kitty. A few minutes of silliness and play, can make the difference, between a ‘great show cat attitude’, and a sullen boring, or nasty kitty! The concepts of, negative and positive reinforcement therapy, and reward inspiration, are basic to ’sports psychology’. Sometimes we forget that, cat showing is a competative event, and, we are working with elite athletes! Always remember. You are the Coach!

All of the ‘artistic breeding’, sculpting and shaping, will fall to the wayside, if your kitty decides to have a meltdown. I have always looked at the ‘selective breeding’ of cats, as the ‘art of purebred cats’. I look at ‘grooming and showing’, like it is the competitative sides of the ‘art’.

I believe that, the true ‘cat artists’, are not necessarily found at the cat shows. I feel, they are the people, who orchestrate these wonderful pedigrees.

That said… there is an ‘art’, to great show grooming. But remember, you may try to apply all of the great artistic grooming tricks in the world to a cat, and it will still not achieve success. Even a ‘living art-form’ may have grooming tantrums!

Always end your grooming session, with a very ‘upbeat and fun’, (even silly) attitude. Take out a toy and play with the kitty! ( Have you ever experienced a ‘high five’? Cats respond the same way an athlete does when they are admired for success.)

The whole event should be relaxing. Good grooming techniques always work, to help to develop, great temperament in the show cat, or pet…They also help you, to maintain your sanity!!

You should always look forward, to your grooming time, spent with your cat.

We have two different grooming regimes at our house. The ‘everyday’, maintenance and bathing, for all of our cats, and the intensive, ‘show cat’- educational grooming, for all of our aspiring athletes and stars!

Both methods are very similar, and are aimed at developing easily groomed, and manageable cats.

Lets Get Started…..

First.. and this sounds very silly.. I want you to practice your voice!!

Inflection in your voice, is the barometer which a cat uses, to see if you are really serious about your request, or not! This is the ’timber’, of your voice. How you ‘sound’ to the cat.

Cats will not respond to a wimpy, whiny or pleading command, nor, will they respond to a booming or screeching , shrill command!

Practice your obedience voice.

Make your commands firm, and to the point!

Now practice your ’silly and playful’ voice.

Both voices should be extremely different, and easy for the cat to understand.

Make commands short and to the point.

DO NOT ‘ASK’ THE CAT TO DO SOMETHING…A GROOMING COMMAND IS NOT NEGOTIABLE!!! Pleading with a cat is a useless endeavor at best.

Cats should understand, that each action they take, elicits a different voice response from you.

Good, bad, or comforting, I use the same voice techniques with my cats, that I use on my dogs.

This is a ‘tried and true’ idea. Dog breeders and trainers have been getting positive results from this method for years! Just look at Barbara Woodhouse and her ‘Lets Go Walkies’ idea.. IT WORKS!

The second grooming concept all cat groomers need to learn is, how to manage a chronic wiggler.

Do not give in to play.. If you do, this will become a very bad habit to break.

The kitty thinks,… ’So this is how I get out of this horrible bath!…By looking ’oh so cute!’.

Don’t be tempted to play !!! Place the kitty in the position that you requested, and repeat firmly.. “NO!..I said NO”. I try to keep ‘one hand on the cat’ for the duration of the grooming. The feel of your hand against the cats skin, can calm him down.

Continue where you left off ..WHILE, KEEPING SILENT! Let me make this clearer. A wiggler does not need to be instigated to play.

A relaxed, easy to groom, cat can be chatted with, and cooed too. NOT THE WIGGLE WORM!

The key point here, is to ‘not interact with verbal response, while the cat is behaving well! Give the cat a ‘love and cuddle’ only, if he lets you finish the area you might be working on. The ‘love and cuddle’ will become the reward for a job well done.

Example. You have just finished combing the cats front legs and he is behaving well.. stop then, and ‘lovie’ the cat. Give the cat some gentle stroking and, in your silliest voice, say..

“What a Good Cat!”!

(Right about now I can visualise Barbara Woodhouse and her ‘catch all phrase’…OKAY!! LET”S GO WALKIES”!!

That is the correct the tone. SILLY SILLY SILLY!!!)

Then. become silent again, and, move on with your grooming.

Remember….you are grooming a chronic wiggler.

Play and silliness are for AFTER grooming!

If the cat becomes aggravated about having a specific area groomed ( perhaps around his/her private parts, or having his nails trimmed, or ears cleaned), change locations. By this I mean, you do not have to stay focused on a specific area. You can always come back to those areas, later.

NEVER PUSH A CAT INTO A NEGATIVE RESPONSE..

If they can ‘spit and growl’ loud enough to stop you from grooming, then they have won the battle!

All cats ‘talk’! Its a fact of cat life. Some cats can be the biggest complainers, or some may just want to chat. Learn to differentiate between, the tone of the cats voice, when he is truly angry and upset, and, when he is just kidding.

Also..SOME CATS ARE JUST PLAIN VOCAL! If you have a kitty who seems to vocalize during grooming, try to not take, these comments as insults!!

If the cat starts to fidget, try to do less grooming, of specific area at a time.

NEVER control a cat by shaking, slapping, or being rough!!

NEVER NEVER NEVER!

If you have become so unnerved, by the grooming session, that you would shake a kitty …TAKE A BREAK!

NEVER LET THE CAT GET FLUSTERED!

Always remember, never end your grooming session on a negative point.

NO MATTER WHAT!

If the grooming has gotten completely ‘out of hand’… and… if ‘Cedric’ has tried to ‘eat you for diner‘.. STOP.. TAKE A BREATH…

Go back immediately, and do something he enjoyed. Perhaps a soft brushing down his back. Then tell him he has done well, and finish! Remember, you can always try again later.

Now, even if things went a little rough ..GO AND PLAY!!

No Negative …ALWAYS POSITITIVE.

The final thought I would like to convey is. always listen to your cat.

Listen to his voice, and study his body language. Learn from his habits and requests.

If a cat is having a problem, it will be easier pick up on it, if you know what the cats ‘normal behaviour’ is. Grooming time, is an opportune time, to see what is really going on with kitty.

It is wonderful to have a great looking cat but, remember.. if the cat won’t let you groom him, your cat’s ‘show career’ could be doomed!!!

Take the time to, ‘psychologically handle’ your kitty while you are grooming him. DON’T JUST GROOM FOR GOOD LOOKS!

 

Copyright & Credit: Sue Williams, 2005 Scaatycats, Victoria BC Canada http://spaces.msn.com/scaatycats/

Photo copyright and courtesy: Michael

Destructive Scratching

| November 6, 2010

Destructive Scratching

You must provide objects for scratching that are appealing, attractive and convenient from your cat's point of view. Start by observing the physical features of the objects your cat is scratching.

Why Do Cats Scratch?

It’s normal for cats to scratch objects in their environment for many reasons:

  • To remove the dead outer layer of their claws.
  • To mark their territory by leaving both a visual mark and a scent – they have scent glands on their paws.
  • To stretch their bodies and flex their feet and claws.
  • To work off energy.

Because scratching is a normal behavior, and one that cats are highly motivated to display, it’s unrealistic to try to prevent them from scratching. Instead, the goal in resolving scratching problems is to redirect the scratching onto acceptable objects.

Training Your Cat To Scratch Acceptable Objects

1. You must provide objects for scratching that are appealing, attractive and convenient from your cat’s point of view. Start by observing the physical features of the objects your cat is scratching. The answers to the following questions will help you understand your cat’s scratching preferences:

  • Where are they located? Prominent objects, objects close to sleeping areas and areas near the entrance to a room are often chosen.
  • What texture do they have – are they soft or coarse?
  • What shape do they have – are they horizontal or vertical?
  • How tall are they? At what height does your cat scratch?

2. Now, considering your cat’s demonstrated preferences, substitute similar objects for her to scratch (rope-wrapped posts, corrugated cardboard or even a log). Place the acceptable object(s) near the inappropriate object(s) that she’s already using. Make sure the objects are stable and won’t fall over or move around when she uses them.

3. Cover the inappropriate objects with something your cat will find unappealing, such as double sided sticky tape, aluminum foil, sheets of sandpaper or a plastic carpet runner with the pointy side up. Or you may give the objects an aversive odor by attaching cotton balls containing perfume, a muscle rub or other unpleasant odor. Be careful with odors, though, because you don’t want the nearby acceptable objects to also smell unpleasant.

4. When your cat is consistently using the appropriate object, it can be moved very gradually (no more than three inches each day) to a location more suitable to you. It’s best, however, to keep the appropriate scratching objects as close to your cat’s preferred scratching locations as possible.

5. Don’t remove the unappealing coverings or odors from the inappropriate objects until your cat is consistently using the appropriate objects in their permanent locations for several weeks, or even a month. They should then be removed gradually, not all at once.

Should I Punish My Cat For Scratching?

NO! Punishment is effective only if you catch your cat in the act of scratching unacceptable objects and have provided her with acceptable scratching objects. Punishment after the fact, won’t change the behavior, may cause her to be afraid of you or the environment and may elicit defensive aggression. Used by itself, punishment won’t resolve scratching problems because it doesn’t teach your cat where to scratch instead. If you do catch her in the act of scratching inappropriate objects, remote punishment is best, in which you do not directly interact with her. Ideas for remote punishment include making a loud noise (using a whistle, shaking a pop can filled with rocks or slapping the wall), throwing a pillow at her or using a water-filled squirt bottle. If punishment is interactive, she’ll learn to refrain from scratching in your presence but will continue to scratch when you’re not around.

How Do I Trim My Cat’s Claws?

To help keep them sharp, cats keep their claws retracted except when they’re needed. As the claws grow too long and become curved, they can’t be retracted completely. You should clip off the sharp tips of your cat’s claws on all four feet every week or so. Clipping your cat’s claws will also help prevent them from becoming snagged in carpets, fabrics and skin.

Before trimming your cat’s claws, accustom her to having her paws handled and squeezed. You can do this by gently petting her legs and paws while giving her a treat. This will help to make it a more pleasant experience. Gradually increase the pressure so that petting becomes gentle squeezing, as you’ll need to do this to extend the claw. Continue with the treats until your cat tolerates this kind of touching and restraint. It may take a little longer if she’s not used to having her legs or paws handled.

Apply a small amount of pressure to her paw, with your thumb on top of her paw and your index finger underneath, until a claw is extended. You should be able to see the pink or “quick,” which is a small blood vessel. Don’t cut into this pink portion, as it will bleed and be painful for your cat. If you cut off just the sharp tip of the claw, the “hook,” it will dull the claw and prevent extensive damage to household objects and to your skin.

There are several types of claw trimmers designed especially for pets. These are better than your own nail clipper because they won’t crush the claw. Until you and your cat have become accustomed to the routine, one foot a day is enough of a challenge. Don’t push to do all four at once, or you’ll both have only negative memories of claw clippers!

Should I Declaw My Cat?

We strongly discourage cat owners from having their cats declawed. Scratching is a natural behavior for cats and can be directed to appropriate items. However, if you feel that you must either declaw or give up your cat, we would rather see your cat stay in her home and be your lifelong companion. If you do decide to have your cat declawed, we suggest you have the surgery done at the same time she’s spayed (or neutered if your cat is a male), that you only declaw the front paws and that you always keep your cat indoors.

Copyright & Credit:
Source: Paws – www.paws.org

Photo copyright and courtesy: Fofurasfelinas –  www.flickr.com

Do You Have A Cat That Is Constantly Afraid?

| December 20, 2011
Do You Have A Cat That Is Constantly Afraid

A cat that is constantly afraid of its environment will not be a healthy cat or one that will get along with other cats or humans. Learn what to do to makes sure your cat is not constantly afraid and you will have a healthy and loving companion.

A cat that is constantly afraid of its environment will not be a healthy cat or one that will get along with other cats or humans. Learn what to do to makes sure your cat is not constantly afraid and you will have a healthy and loving companion.

If you have a cat that is constantly afraid then you need to read the following very carefully.

A cat should have a good safe hiding place, where it can be left alone until it perceives that things are safe. The cat will usually pick one of its own, but it should have access to its food bowl, water and litter box.

Close room doors when possible to make the cat feel more secure. This is extremely important when company comes to visit or you have a noisy party. Giving a cat as a gift at a noisy party, can freak the cat out, because it violates its comfort factor. Take the time to introduce the cat quietly.

Cats have a social organization that is flexible and allows them to share their territory with other cats. Some times they are accepting of another cat and sometimes they do not – just like people, who have just met someone new. Liking and disliking, on a moments notice. One may want to play and the other may not. Their time as a kitten may determine the likelihood of their desire to be sociable.

When cats have been introduced, they may want to fight to protect territory or establish dominance. Many cat training e-books will tell you NOT TO allow a fight to happen or to continue, if one happens. Make a loud noise, such as yelling HEY. Use a spray bottle with clean water and spray them once or twice from a distance. A clean, well washed out used cleaner bottle will work nicely. They will probably be on the run for their safeafe place before you can get the second spray out.

DO NOT try to physically separate them or in their passion of the moment, they may be aggressive toward you. Be very careful in handling, while a cat is fearful. Their instinct is for self protection. When they have reached their safe hiding place, close the door and give them a time out, just as you would a child.

Be consistent with your water bottle treatment and the time outs. Other punishment may cause further bad behavior and fear. The cat may become aggressive toward you, if it preceives you as a threat. It is NOT acceptable to them, for you to hurt them in your temporary anger. Be loving after the time out, so that the cat knows you love them, but that there are limits to be lived by.

A cat will usually react to fear with 3 Fs – fight – freeze – flee – sometimes loss of bladder/ bowel control. A cat may also puff out its fur, hiss or spit. What causes the fear? Figure it out and fix the problem. Some things that cause fear are a person, children, other animals or loud noises such as a vacuum cleaner being used.

One example we had, was the putting on of a ski hat and sunglasses when Winter came. It freaked out our recently rescued cat the first few times it happened. He had a bad memory?

DO NOT force a fearful thing/ person on them. Introduce at a safe distance – slowly. Feed the cat a treat and praise them for accepting the new thing/ person. Remember that animals have a better inner radar than we do, about people and the vibes they give off. Trust their judgment.

Routines and schedules are important for the well being of your cat. Be as consistent as ppossible. They want the same things to occur each day in the same way and at the same time.

Play time before bed time will help to ensure a good sleep. The more leaping, jumping and running the better. Remember that cats are noctural by nature. They like to play at night and tiring them out will help them sleep. If you sit down to watch a TV program, that you watch each dayScience Articles, the commercial breaks are a great time to brush your cat and play with it.

 

Copyright & Credit:

Article Source: Source:  ArticlesFactory.com –Author: Judy Jantzen – My husband and I have owned cats for the past 25 years. Currently have a orange tabby and a black short hair. All the cats we have owned have been strays. – For more fabulous articles about cats and some of the finest cat goodies available anywhere including cat food bowls, cat carriers, fur ball remedies, return address labels and cat training e-books check out our web site Cat Goodies Finder.com

Photo copyright and courtesy: Vanessa

Do You Make This Mistake With Your Cat’s Carrier?

| December 27, 2011
Do You Make This Mistake With Your Cat's Carrier

Every cat owner knows the problem - your cat needs to be put in their carrier... And guess what? Suddenly your super-clingy and ever present furry companion has vanished into thin air!

Every cat owner knows the problem – your cat needs to be put in their carrier so that you can take them to the vet, or to the boarding establishment or because you are moving to a new home. And guess what? Suddenly your super-clingy and ever present furry companion has vanished into thin air!

And even when you finally manage to locate the fur-covered little devil after wasting time you can ill-afford, you have to battle claws, teeth, rudely hissed words and ears flattened so close to your cat’s head you’d think that they’s disappeared altogether. Your cat is less than co-operative as you struggle to force their rigid body into their carrier.

So why does your normal, affectionate and co-operative pet immediately turn into a feral wildcat at the very sight of their carrier?

Well, prepare yourself for a shock – it’s your fault – and you probably have no idea at all that you are responsible for making The Big Mistake.

And the mistake is..

You tidy your cat’s carrier away when you’ve finished with it.

We all do it. As soon as the trauma of transporting your cat from A to B is over, the carrier gets put in the garage, in a shed or in a cupboard out of sight and out of mind. And that is where the mistake is made. The hated carrier is hidden away.

So, as the guilty party, how can you correct your error? Can you change the situation for the better? Is it possible for your cat to ever accept their carrier and remain calm and serene around it? Without doubt they can – and you can start to correct your mistake the very second you’ve finished reading this!

  • Bring the carrier out of storage and place it in a cat-friendly place.

  • Place it where it is cosy and quiet.

  • Make it comfortable inside with a blanket or cushion.

  • Make it enticing by placing a catnip toy inside

  • Place a few tasty morsels inside.

  • Always leave the door wide open for free access.

  • Make it a fixture within your cat’s everyday world.

And that’s all you need to do. If you follow the above steps you can start to change the negative associations your cat has with their carrier. Each time the carrier is brought out, it triggers bad memories for your cat so it’s no wonder that they connect the carrier with being forced to undergo unpleasant and unwelcome procedures whenever it appears. It is your job, as an owner, to work towards changing your cat’s perception of their carrier and to replace the bad memories with good ones.

Gradually, your cat will come to accept the carrier as being part of their normal, everyday experiences and when this happens, they will be able to remain relaxed around it and in it. By also turning the carrier into a place that is attractive for your cat to sleep in, with their favorite toy and snack included, eventually the bad feelings will be chased away by good ones.

Naturally, a trip to the vet’s surgery will always cause some bad feelings to re-surface. However, to overcome that particular problem you would have to make your vet part of your cat’s everyday, normal experience too. And that’s just not likely to happen, is it?

 

Copyright & Credit: 

Article Source: www.eArticlesOnline.com | Be sure that you don’t make the commonest cat owning mistakes. For more cat care information and tips and to subscribe to Jane Tompsett’s free Cat Owners Confidential Newsletter simply follow these links.

Photo copyright and courtesy:
Marc Gommans

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